hey whats up?? here is my email, maverik176@optonline.net just send me the decals there. plus if u want some decals that i made just let me know... where can i sign up for the titans' club!!! n what kind of pic do u need to add w/ photoshop...
I have started using washes. They work very nicely. I use a laquer for the main coat and color then when its dried you use a really thinned enamel or acrylic color for the pannel lines. once you put it on you wipe the excess off with a rag or quetip, and it stays in the pannel lines
Im working on a G-savior and a non scale Starwars Clone army At-Rt. Some of your kits look good glossy, the blue destiny, the char's. For as far as grunts go, zakus, goufs, they shouldn't be glossy, they most likely wernt even glossy when first produced
Your welcome, Im sorry for having posted all of that before I noticed on your later models that you say you used custom decals, IE meaning water slides. But I do still think some dullcoate on a few of your kits would do wonders, are you going to post anything new soon?
Now, to the last problem that just SCREAMS at me. Your markings. I can take a wild, blind guess, and say you use the dry transfer decals that come with the kit. Now, these decals are good, better then stickers, but there not the best. They can come off uneven if you dont place them perfectly. Even if you place them perfectly you might not rub off every little bit of it and come up with a ruined decal, and if this is over paint you might have problems. I suggest, for the ball for example again, that you go and buy some after market decals. Bandai makes them specificly for their MG and HGUC kits, I will give you a link. http://www.gundamstoreandmore.com/ban934127.html ------------------------------ Now, how those decals work, as opposed to dry transfer... You cut the decal out of the paper, you dip it in water for a few seconds to a min, to let the glue activate. You find the spot on your kit you want to place it on (having before hand decided this, and sprayed gloss coat, because closs coat is smooth and allows the decal to stick better and not bubble or silver). You slide the decal off the backing paper onto the kit where you want it. At this point you can still move it around. You slide it untill it is EXACTLY where you want it to be then holding it in place, you dab with a quetip or napkin to lift up the excess water. AFter this you should apply a bit (enough to cover the decal) of Decal Softener. This is sold seperatly, it melts the decal so that it will conform to the surface of the model kit, meaning you can put it over curves, breaking points, vents, things that are not flat and therefor impossible on dry transfer decals. After you have it set, and the softener is on, do NOT touch it for atleast a half hour better to use overkill then touch it early (if you do you could ruin the decal) After this time you should hit it with either another gloss coat, or dullcoate, or normal clear coat, depending on what you want, to keep the decal to stick and stay perminantly. See my kits for examples, then compare them to your decals
First off, the Dual barrel cannons on your Ball, if you loose closley not only do you see a seam line down the center, but it is slightly off center, uneven. First you should take sand paper to that, a low grit, and sand it down untill the un-evenness is lessened, then smooth it with a higher then higher grit. Once you do that apply putty over it and sand, the putty should naturally even out the surface. ---------- Now, for the seams themselves, first you want to use enough glue so that the seams are only on the surface, and not deeper, that will cause problems in the long run. Once your glue has dried (give it time, you dont want to start sanding semi plyable glue, causes problems) sand it down with a low grade and slowly move to a high grade sand paper for a smooth finish. Once that is done apply putty to the seam, once THAT dries, re-do the sanding procedure. Once you have finished sanding the putty to the point where only putty in the seam remains, smooth it down, like before, then hit it with a coat of primer. any imperfections or un-filled seams will show VERY clearly, as well as uneven surfaces. if there are any, you should repeat the puttying process.
Can I make a suggestion? You need to start using Dull Coate over your kits when you are done, alot of them look really good but then... you cant really see how good they are because the glossy finish, it really takes away from the finished product. I like your ideas, I really do, but you need to work on your fundimentals before you get into the more advanced stuff. Like for example, I like your ideas with your ball, the paint job is very nice, the weathering is good, the damage is good, it looks semi realistic, next time though, size up the rifle muzzle with the bullet holes, make sure it lines up, because it is going to be from the 120mm MAchine gun rounds from the zaku II, nothing special for that zaku prototype. Now, Im going ot use that ball as an example, because you have promise but need work. First off Fill the seams. I will post another post so you can see it clearly about how to make that kit perfect
Never just decide on a whym what your going to use the extra parts for. Look at my heavyarms, that zaku II, and RX-79-2 had been laying around for a while before I figgured how to use them with that heavyarms. Just build your protype zaku and worry about the parts later. Your main concern should be figguring out how to manage building that skirt, its quite the odd modification, nothing really matches it
You can't screw it up, if it looks like crap wipe it off. And if you still don't like the idea of that buy a $2 match box car, dry brush the under arse of it, spray paint it black and keep on painting it untill it looks ace. Remember the less the paint the better the look...
Thanks im glad you like the Zeta. I have to be sorry due to removing your advice on dry brushing. Allla does funny things when he gets new advice so I left advice on my other mates profile. I had a looks at your of you clear pictures and left feed back. I hope they help you out and good seeing these models comming out...
I can see with each model your skills are improving quickly and your photos are getting clearer. Keep up the good work and change those old pictures please. Even if it is older work some of us would like to see them...
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